Custom Jewelry Making using Lost Wax Casting

Custom Jewelry Making using Lost Wax Casting

Sketch of custom ring design

The first step in making custom jewelry is you, the customer, getting the idea of a ring, earring or pendant design you would like to have created.  Usually you have looked for that special piece of  jewelry but can't find the design you want anywhere.  Once you contact me, jewelry maker Tony Payne, and explain what you want, I will give you a free price quote based on your unique design ideas. A sketch of the design can be made for your approval before any work begins.

The next step in the custom jewelry process is carving the wax model. For a video of me demonstrating this step in the process go to this YouTube page. Rings start out as wax tubes and pendants begin as wax sheets or blocks. Saws, files, and specialized carving tools are used to cut away the wax and sculpt the design. 

Wax model of custom ring

Measurements are taken and the design is first scratched in the surface of the wax model. As in most sculpture the material that is not needed is removed.  Wax can also be added to the design using a special tool.  Once the design is carved, sprues, or wax wires, are added which will be attached to a flexible rubber base (see below). The wax is weighed and multiplied by a factor to see how much gold or sterling silver will be needed to make a complete cast.

The wax model is then attached to the rubber base using the wax sprue. More than one model can be attached to each base if needed.  A metal flask is then put into the rubber base.

Wax model on rubber base

Wax model in metal flask

Investment is a white powder used in casting that is mixed with water.  The investment is mixed using exact proportions, stirred and then poured into the metal flask. This material is semi-liquid when first mixed and it engulfs the wax model and sprues. It is then left for an hour to harden. The wax model and sprues are encased inside the hardened investment.

Molten metal being poured into the cavity
in the investment

The rubber base is removed and the flask containing the wax is placed in a burnout oven. This burnout process takes about six to twelve hours to complete and reaches a maximum temperature of 1350 degrees Fahrenheit. The wax model is destroyed by this extreme heat leaving a cavity where it once was.  The flask is taken out of the oven and molten gold or sterling silver is immediately poured into the cavity in the investment. The sprues now act as channels for the molten gold.  The metal then cools and hardens.

After the metal cools the sprues are sawed off and the metal design is smoothed with files and then sanded. The piece is polished and given any finishes that are needed such as texturing or antiquing. Any gemstones are then set in the handmade ring, pin or pendant. This completes the ancient custom jewelry making process know as lost wax casting.  The results is a finished handcrafted ring, bracelet or pendant that is unique and will always have special meaning to the person that wears it.

Completed custom ring

 Email me, jewelry maker, Tony Payne at  tony@paynesjewelry.com with your custom jewelry ideas and I will give you a free price quote based on your individual jewelry needs.

Custom Rings or Pendants Made for You by Payne's Custom Jewelry

Unique Gold and Diamond Ring

Custom Rings and Pendants that You Design

Custom made Pendant

The three pictures on this post are examples of recent custom jewelry pieces I have made for my Internet customers. The first picture is a ladies horseshoe ring with diamonds made in yellow gold. I can use yellow or white gold, or sterling silver, to make your custom jewelry. The gold used can be either 10, 14 or 18 karat. On the left is an image of a unique pendant done in sterling silver. To see more pictures of my custom jewelry visit my website Payne Custom Jewelry.

Custom Sterling Silver Band

The handcrafted ring on the right was done in sterling silver with the design antiqued. I can make almost any type of jewelry you can imagine. The ring or pendant design possibilities are endless. If you are interested in getting a unique custom piece done send me an email at tony@paynesjewelry.com and I will give you a free price quote based on your design ideas.

Handmade Pendants You Design by Payne's Custom Jewelry

Unique Handmade Pendants

Have you ever wanted a certain pendant design but you couldn't find it in any jewelry store? You can now have it handmade by me and done according to your wishes. I have been making custom jewelry for my customers for over 25 years and can turn your jewelry ideas into reality. My custom jewelry site Payne's Custom Jewelry has more pictures of examples of my work.




Your unique handmade jewelry can be cast in either sterling silver, gold or platinum. Sterling silver is the least expensive of the precious metals. Your gold pendant can be either 10, 14 or 18 karat. You also can choose yellow or white color gold.






The cost of your handmade pendant will depend on the details of the design, the metal used and if there are any gemstones used. Natural or synthetic stones can be set in your custom made pendant. I can even use your gemstones in the piece if you like. Think of the possibilities! And remember, your unique handmade jewelry will last forever.

Email me at tony@paynesjewelry.com with your custom pendant ideas or questions and I will give you a free price quote based on your unique jewelry design. If you would like to call my toll free phone number is 1 (866) 509-9199. Please call between 8 AM and 6 PM CDT Monday through Saturday.

Your questions and comments about handmade jewelry are welcome.

Unique Custom Jewelry made by Payne's Custom Jewelry

Happy New Year from Payne's Custom Jewelry!

I wish to thank all my customers for their business in 2007 and I look forward to another great year in 2008. Above is a recent custom pendant I made for a customer of mine in sterling silver with red stones. I have a page about custom Christian jewelry on my website.

The custom logo pendant pictured above was made for a good client of mine recently. I do a good bit of custom company logo jewelry for my Internet customers. This pendant is made in 14 karat yellow and white gold with a black onyx stone in the center and natural rubies on the wings.


This last custom piece above is a personalized initial ring made in sterling silver. I created two matching bands in this design. I specialize in unique sterling silver rings and pendants made using your own design.

If you have always wanted a unique custom ring or pendant send me an email at tony@paynesjewelry.com and I will send you a free price quote based on your individual custom jewelry needs.

Your comments or questions about custom jewelry are welcome!

Custom Dinosaur Poop Pendant in Sterling Silver now on Ebay

Custom Sterling Silver Dino Poop Pendant now on Ebay

I currently have this unique handmade pendant made with fossilized dinosaur coprolite, commonly know as poop, for sale on Ebay. There are ten days until this auction ends.

I would like you to buy this pendant. The starting bid is only $1.00.

Let me explain why it's a good idea for you to do this.

This is a piece of beautiful jewelry that is totally unique. There isn't another like it in the world! It is handmade by me and not mass produced.

The designer cut gemstone was expertly cut from rough material I purchased on Ebay. I looked months for the best quality rough stone to buy. This gemstone is fossilized coprolite, or poop, from a dinosaur that lived millions of years ago in Utah. The beautiful red and white color stone has a mirror polish.

This unique pendant is made with sterling silver which is a precious metal.

This piece would make the perfect gift for someone who has everything.

A 20 inch solid rope sterling silver 2.2 mm diameter chain is included in this auction.

Thanks for checking out my custom jewelry blog and Ebay auction.

This is a direct link to my Ebay auction.

Your comments are welcome!

Custom Jewelry Made Using Your Stones and Gold

Unique Custom Jewelry Created Using Your Gemstones and Gold

I recently made a custom pendant for a customer and she requested I use her gold and stones in the design. She sent me a picture of the pendant design and stone layout she wanted. My estimate was for the labor on the carving and casting as well as the stone setting. She provided all the materials needed to make the pendant.

If you have gemstones and scrap gold you would like to have made into a new custom piece just let me know what you would like and I'll send you a free price quote based on your design and materials. My email address is tony@paynesjewelry.com . Your custom jewelry can be a unique ring, pendant or pin.

Below is a picture of the finished custom gold pendant with gemstones. For more information about how custom jewelry is made and to see more examples of my work go to my website Payne's Custom Jewelry .